Chicken Soup with Ginger and Moringa Leaves

Sometimes you don’t appreciate the true glory of a dish until you eat it in its perfect context. On my first visit to the Philippines, at age twenty, I wandered through a tall grassy field one morning in my dad’s home province of Batangas, and whatever was growing there gave me an allergic reaction bad enough that I was rushed to the emergency room. Back at the house where I was staying, I woke from antihistamine-induced grogginess to a hot bowl of chicken tinola. I’d eaten many versions of