Taro Leaves Stewed in Coconut Milk, with Toasted Coconut-Milk Curds

Now this is luxury: mineral-rich gabi, or taro leaves, shaped like hearts and cooked down with creamy coconut milk and searing chiles, the signatures of the Bicol region of the Philippines. Taro leaves can be hard to find in the United States; some Filipino groceries sell them pre-packaged and labeled “dried laing,” but that yields a different flavor and texture. You can try ordering them shipped frozen from Hawai‘i, where they’re known as lu‘au leaves, or substitute other hardy dark greens