Marinated Silver Fish

In the wild, bangus, or milkfish, is silver and shimmery as a disco ball. An oily fish, it’s often deboned, butterflied, and plunged in a tangy marinade, then fried whole and served splayed open to show off its creamy fatty belly, which is so rich, I ration it out to myself, spooning it up between other bites. Because milkfish is hard to get in the United States, I use sardines or sprats (with the guts, gills, and scales removed). Mackerel or other oily silver fish work, too—try to find one