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10 to 12
Complex
By Angela Dimayuga and Ligaya Mishan
Published 2021
This is the dish that changed my life as a chef—that made me realize that Filipino cooking shares the same level of technique and precision we expect and revere in French cuisine. I learned how to make it from my lola Josefina (see “Listening to Lola,”) and served it as a large-format meal at Mission Chinese Food in New York, for $75 a platter.
I won’t lie to you: This is hard labor. Somehow Lola could knock off three at a time for a party, using just