Fermented Shrimp and Rice Condiment

In Pampanga, where my mom grew up, tagilo—known elsewhere in the country as burong hipon—is the vital sawsawan (dipping sauce): rice and shrimp or fish fermented for 3 to 7 days, depending on the temperature of the room, until deeply salty-sour. It has a whiff of rot, but so does fine aged cheese, and once you get past that (or embrace it!), the taste is sublime.

Be sure not to use warm rice. If just cooked, let it cool for a few hours; better yet, repurpose leftovers. I like making