Pork Liver Sauce

Tomas de los Reyes, now known simply as Mang Tomas—“mang” is an honorific, like mister—was a lechonero who started selling ready-to-go whole roasted pigs in the 1950s in Quezon City, first from the yard of his house to gamblers heading home from neighborhood cockfights, and then from a shop with lechon displayed on vertical bamboo skewers, their skin so burnished from the coals, they nearly glowed. Part of the lure was his special sauce, made of mashed, mineral-rich pork livers, sugar, and