Coco Jam

Unlike Malaysian kaya—which I also love: rich and custardy, suffused with pandan—our version of coconut jam doesn’t require eggs, which makes it the vegan equivalent of dulce de leche, coconut milk and sugar held at a low simmer until dark and thick as butterscotch. I use light brown sugar and molasses, for sweetness tinged by smoke, but you can swap out both for 1 cup (220 g) packed dark brown sugar instead. You’ll need this for Biko, but it can also take