In the Oaxacan town of Ocotlán de Morelos, at the food stall La Cocina de Frida, the chef Beatriz Vázquez Gómez wears flowers in her hair and draws her eyebrows into a single arc, in honor of the artist Frida Kahlo. Beatriz—or Frida, as her customers call her—is famous for her mole and enfrijoladas, and often throws in a gift with the meal: once a blackened, super-ripe plantain that burst open with steam, basking on a