Banana Leaf–Scented Fresh Farm Cheese

In the Oaxacan town of Ocotlán de Morelos, at the food stall La Cocina de Frida, the chef Beatriz Vázquez Gómez wears flowers in her hair and draws her eyebrows into a single arc, in honor of the artist Frida Kahlo. Beatriz—or Frida, as her customers call her—is famous for her mole and enfrijoladas, and often throws in a gift with the meal: once a blackened, super-ripe plantain that burst open with steam, basking on a