Chiffon Loaf Cake

Taisan means “whetstone” in Kapampangan—a somewhat ironic name for this cloud of a cake, which is a slab in shape but so light it’s almost ready to take to the air. It’s a great introduction to chiffon, without the trickiness of cutting layers.

Once, far from home and my trusty stand mixer, I had to whip the egg whites by hand. It took forever and was a major workout, but that reminded me of how much labor goes into this cake, and made me extra careful when folding the egg whites in