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Cullen is the village on the Moray Firth where this classic Scottish soup originated, and ‘skink’ is an ancient word for a broth or soup. Traditionally the soup wouldn’t have the added cream or parsley, and some modern variations even include bacon and other such heresies. This soup is substantial enough to be served as a main course or brunch dish. Avoid the yellow-dyed smoked haddock and buy the lighter-coloured natural fillets or Arbroath smokies, which are on the bone. If you haven’t ti