Mushrooms with Garlic Butter

Come September the French go mad. Normally a gregarious race, shouting and swapping stories and drinks in the steamy bars, they suddenly change . . . they form themselves into little whispering groups and abruptly cease talking when a stranger or rival approaches. Wizened old men take out tatty bags from their leather overcoats and guardedly show the contents to a trusted friend.

It is the mushroom season. One of the greatest gastronomic events of the year. They skive off work and d