Boiled Mutton with Caper Sauce

Now there is no point in making this classic dish unless you have a real gigot – and a real leg of mutton must be from an animal at least four years old, and preferably from my friend John Noble’s estate in Argyll where the weather, as you indeed call this particular kind of beast, grazes undisturbed upon the vast acres of bog myrtle, heather, rosemary, parsley et al. to its heart’s content. Or until summoned by its lord and master, the laird, to its final resting place upo