Potato Omelette

Fourteen-year-old beach bar cooks can make tortillas to perfection. All grannies — Spanish ones that is — can make them to perfection. And yet, seemingly the simplest of dishes, it is one of the most difficult in which to achieve perfection. Do not make the mistake of thinking it is just fried potatoes with egg over the top.

The secret lies in having a heavy, well-used iron frying pan and in using the finest-quality olive oil and chunks of extremely waxy potatoes. And then in