Spicy calamari with swamp cabbage and chilli hoi sin sauce

I remember a day at BB Park in Kuala Lumpur It has a fun fair, with a roller coaster, an outdoor cinema where avid watchers line rows of benches, and of course plenty of hawker cuisine. The stalls offer many different varieties of food, but the theme is simple. It is food to be picked up, like capsicum pieces stuffed with fishball mixture, or with bean curd, and brandished on satay sticks. There are no niceties here, just sheer greedy fun—this is old-style takeaway. The atmosphere is one of