Crisp spiced pigeon on snow-pea shoot risotto

Six-week-old pigeons or squabs, the stars of this dish, are on the threshold of flight, fine feathered and beginning to eat grain independently. In this main course they are tender yet crisp, interestingly spiced, without distraction. The snow-pea shoots and bland risotto are but extras on the stage.

King or Carneau pigeons are best. A twelve-hour marinade rub of toasted sea salt, herbs and spices imparts aroma. Tim Pak Poy developed this rub for a special dinner at Claude’s in Sydn