Warm Fruitwood-Smoked Salmon with Potato Gnocchi and Balsamic Glaze

In this dish, smoked salmon—typically served cold—is heated in milk and served warm. Take care not to let the milk get too hot—you don’t want to poach the salmon or allow its color to change. The milk leaches salt from the flesh, which allows one to serve the fish warm and to keep the integrity of the smoky cured flavor without overpowering the dish with salt. As with bacon, I prefer a fruitwood smoke to a hardwood smoke for the salmon because it’s sweeter.