Salmon “Chops” with Celery and Black Truffles

The idea of doing a fish chop was inspired by David Burke, the relentlessly creative chef of New York City’s Park Avenue Café. He uses swordfish, which is too big for the French Laundry, but there’s a section of the salmon fillet near the head that can be cut into two chops. It’s anything but practical, since you only get two from each whole salmon. Here, to replace the chop cut, use salmon fillet.