For two hundred years or more, a steady trickle of young Auvergnats have made their way to Paris to train as restaurant chefs. A few years ago about twenty founded an association: l’Amicale des Cuisiniers et Pâtissiers Auvergnats de Paris. Their book Cuisine d’Auvergne was written to record and honour the good country cooking of their family homes. Some of the dishes show signs of being altered to suit Parisian clients, in the way that
In the Auvergne the bolet à pied rouge (Erythropus) is common; in Britain field mushrooms replace them quite well.
Cut the stalks of the cèpes level with the caps. Chop the stalks and mix with the bacon, garlic, parsley, chervil, bread and egg to make the stuffing. Season with salt and pepper and spoon on to the gill side of each cèpe or mushroom, pressing it down to make
Brush an oven dish with the oil and spread the chopped onion over the base. Place the stuffed cèpes on top and sprinkle with
© 1987 Geraldene Holt. All rights reserved.