The fruit that links the Ardèche kitchen I use and the one at home in Devon is the plum. In July Mme Marquet brings us a bowl of her red cherry plums every few days and here in our Devon village, which is named after a plum tree, we depend upon a large spreading tree planted fifty years ago in a field called Dippy Orchard. About the middle of August it produces far more plums than we can deal with. Neighbours and friends have baskets of large purple plums pressed into their