Blanquette de Chevreau

Kid Meat with Cream Sauce

Occasionally what is labelled ‘wild’ goat meat from North Devon is on sale in Exeter. How wild is wild, I wondered, but bought some all the same; I cooked it in a Greek recipe and it tasted Greek enough. On the whole I prefer the taste and texture of kid meat which has long been popular in Provence. Does the growth of goat cheese-making in Britain mean that in time kid will become more widely available? Mme Marquet’s advice is to cook kid as you would veal. Most veal and kid recipes are interchangeable, and both meats need to be well cooked to be satisfactory.

Ingredients

  • ¾ kg (about lb) shoulder of kid, boned
  • salt
  • 1 carrot
  • 1 onion stuck with 6 cloves
  • white part of a leek
  • half a stick of celery
  • 1 clove of garlic
  • bouquet garni
  • 170 g(6 oz) button mushrooms
  • 30 g(1 oz) butter
  • 30 g(1 oz) flour
  • ground mace or nutmeg
  • 2 egg yolks
  • 150 ml(¼ pt) double cream

Method

Cut the meat in 5 cm(2 in) cubes and soak in cold water for 1 hour. Drain and cover with fresh water. Add a little salt and bring the water to the boil. Skim off any froth and add the carrot, onion, leek, celery, garlic and bouquet garni. Cover, lower the heat and cook very slowly for 1–1½ hours or until the meat is tender.

Use a slotted spoon to lift out the meat and place in a hot serving dish. Strain the liquid and add the mushrooms. When they are cooked use a slotted spoon to lift them out and add to the meat. Reduce the liquid over high heat until it measures 425 ml(¾ pint) and pour it into a jug.

Melt the butter in the pan and stir in the flour for 1–2 minutes but do not let it colour. Gradually whisk in the stock and cook until thickened. Whisk the egg yolks with the cream and gradually pour into the sauce, whisking all the time, but do not let it boil. Season with mace or nutmeg, and add a dash of lemon juice to sharpen the flavour slightly.

Pour the sauce over the meat and mushrooms and serve with rice or noodles.

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