Mme Marquet uses her own almonds to make this lovely, delicately flavoured cake, the recipe for which came from her niece, Suzanne. I’m usually given a huge bag of almonds to bring home, ‘pour les gâteaux’, she says, knowing my fondness for baking. This cake is nicer if you blanch and grind the almonds yourself; they have far more flavour than bought ground almonds.