Uthman Radi’s tiny seaside shack on the outskirts of the Beach Refugee Camp is such a phenomenon you have to book in advance. The former fisherman from Asqalan and father of eight admits with a shrug that his food is considered so good it is “alarming,” giving rise to his nickname, qalaq qalaq.

The ideal way to make this fish is grilled over hot embers (no flames!), but if you don’t have access to a barbeque a broiler will work fine.