I’ve tasted a million focaccia and was never a big fan until my head baker, Ben Campbell, developed his recipe for Willmott’s Ghost. It’s not flat and ropey like a lot of American focaccia, but fluffy, salty, and a happy sponge for lots of post-cooking olive oil. The flour does matter—you want stuff that is freshly milled with some germ in it, like Cairnspring Mills from Washington State. Look for good flour from your local mill, or the reliably fresh flours of King