Every year around my early August birthday, I go with one of my chefs, Taylor Thornhill, to pick figs from the tree at the school where my brother works. These are early-ripening green figs that are as big as lemons and much heavier. When you cut into them, their interiors are magenta red, jammy, and absurdly juicy. They don’t need much to go with them, but a sturdy raft of grilled bread keeps the figs from bursting in your hands, and fresh ricotta gives them some gentle, c