Chilled Marinated Mussels with Pickled Celery and Tarragon

Cold mussels may be even better than warm ones, one reason I have a couple of recipes for them in this book. While the mint-pistou ones are rich, these are very lightly pickled, brisk, and fragrant with tarragon—one of mussels’ best companions. The other great thing is that this recipe is best made ahead of time to develop flavors well, and it will hold for two to three days in the fridge. That way, you can be as cool and collected as a chilled mussel when