I wrote earlier about how much I like to cook and eat meat on the bone. I’ve decided it’s time to bring back the salmon steak, which lost popularity to the easier-to-gobble salmon fillet. For grilling, steaks are magic. They are easy to cook, less likely to fall apart, and the bones and connective tissue make for a richer flavor. Even better, everyone can roll up their sleeves and have fun with the process of pulling the salmon apart and eating it. It’s like a