Small heads of red romaine, like the ones we get from James Birch at Flora Bella Farm in Three Rivers, California, are the perfect vehicles for the warm garlic-and-anchovy bath known as bagna cauda. It’s traditionally used as a dip, but when spiked with a bit of red wine vinegar and used as a dressing for the grilled red romaine, the result is a beautifully succulent, smoky dish. Be liberal with the anchovies and garlic—the heat tends to mellow them just enough so that your
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