Salmon with Horseradish, Aioli, Green Onions & Lemon

We only use wild salmon when they can be found at their peak, and we try to get the ones that swim around the Sacramento–San Joaquin Delta. Ocean trout and arctic char are also good choices. Don’t be shy with the horseradish when using the fresh root instead of the jarred prepared type. I love its nose-stinging quality with the fatty salmon.

We cut the salmon into 1-lb [455-g] blocks and freeze them overnight, tightly wrapped with plastic or sealed with a vacuum sealer to kill any p