“Ruth, honey,” bawls “Hoppin’ John” Martin Taylor over the phone to Ruth Fales at the Pinckney Cafe in Charleston, South Carolina. “I’m sending two hungry friends over for pamenuh cheese sandwiches, so pile it on heavy.” Of course, every Southerner thinks he or she knows what constitutes perfect pimento cheese, and even the few non-Southerners who know what the spread is can have a very resolute idea of how it should be made. In the South, PC is used for sa
