Crabmeat au Gratin

For as long as I can remember, crabmeat au gratin has been considered the quintessential “fussy” appetizer in upscale restaurants, gracious homes, and country clubs throughout the South (despite there not being one thing fussy about the dish). I readily admit that I could eat it every day of my life. Normally, I use only aged, extra-sharp cheddar cheese in cooking, but not for crabmeat au gratin since it overwhelms the crabmeat. Likewise with the sherry, which adds sensual depth, so long as