Innovative Charleston and Savannah chefs seem finally to be discovering perloo, awendaw, Huguenot torte, and any number of other distinctive dishes that once figured prominently in Carolina and Georgia Lowcountry cuisine. But, so far, not one seems to be even aware of this superlative curried meat custard that probably graced both breakfast and dinner tables during the plantation era. I can remember eating hobotee at the old Fort Sumter Hotel in Charleston and hearing my grandmother tell about fixing it for breakfast and elaborate fish dinners. A recipe for the dish is included in the classic cookbook
In a skillet, melt the butter over moderate heat, add the onion, and
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