Of the more exotic Southern coleslaws served with fried chicken and seafood, this is my favorite—at least for the time being. Curiously, it was inspired by a slaw I found one day in Chattanooga when a friend and I stormed out of a pretentious restaurant that was serving a putative Creole gumbo flavored with lemongrass (!) and ended up at a deli down the street. I’ve also seen versions of this slaw in upscale cafeterias, and, actually, lots of Southerners like to flavor their plain, ordinary coleslaw with just a suggestion of crushed pineapple.
In a bowl, combine the reserved pineapple juice, oil, vinegar, celery seed, orange zest, mustard, and salt and pepper, whisk till well blended and smooth, and set aside.
Remove and discard the outer leaves of the cabbage, cut the head into quarters, cut out and discard the hard center core, and shred the quarters into a large bowl. Add the crushed pineapple and raisins and toss till well blended.
Pour the dressing over the top, toss till well blended, cover with plastic wrap, and chill at least 1 hour before serving.
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