Pineapple-Raisin Coleslaw

Of the more exotic Southern coleslaws served with fried chicken and seafood, this is my favorite—at least for the time being. Curiously, it was inspired by a slaw I found one day in Chattanooga when a friend and I stormed out of a pretentious restaurant that was serving a putative Creole gumbo flavored with lemongrass (!) and ended up at a deli down the street. I’ve also seen versions of this slaw in upscale cafeterias, and, actually, lots of Southerners like to flavor their plain, ordinary