In the early 1970S, I was at Commander’s Palace in New Orleans the day that head chef Paul Prudhomme came up with this chicken-and-sausage gumbo and owner Ella Brennan was searching for a catchy name for it. “We wanted to offer a nonseafood gumbo in the restaurant,” Ella recalls today, “and when Paul created this one, I happened to be reading a political novel with ‘