Maryland Deviled Crab Cakes

Heaven knows I’ve eaten my fill of fried or broiled deviled crab in the shell at seafood houses along the Carolina and Florida coasts, but only in a couple of Maryland’s Chesapeake Bay restaurants have I encountered (and swooned over) deviled crab cakes gently sautéed to a golden finish. “Egg white,” one cook informed me when I asked how she made her cakes so light, “and not too many bread crumbs—inside or outside the patties.” The only problem with eating crab cakes that have been correctl