Fried Oysters

I always thought that the greatest fried oysters on earth were found in New Orleans—until, that is, somebody took me to Wintzell’s in Mobile, Alabama, and I ordered a jumbo oyster loaf. Wintzell’s, alas, is no more, but at least I had the chance to learn how they fried their glorious oysters—one secret being to always wait for the fat to heat back up to the right temperature before frying another batch. For these oysters, buy the largest grade available, and, for heaven’s sake, do not commi