If the high ratio of fat to lean meat is what makes baby back pork ribs so ideal for the barbecue grill, lean, meaty country-style ribs, cut from the shoulder end of the pork loin, are the perfect candidate for slow parboiling, before being finished in the oven with a robust barbecue sauce to give them plenty of character. Beautiful as these ribs might look in the market, be warned that if you simply plop them on a hot grill and baste them with sauce, not only will the meat most likely be tough, but by the time they’re halfway edible the sauce might have burned. I have successfully barbecued these ribs slowly over very low heat on a covered grill, but the long procedure is just not worth the time and effort—not when this alternate method produces such succulent results.
Arrange the ribs in a large pot, add enough water to cover, and bring to a boil, skimming any scum off the top. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer the ribs till tender, about 1½ hours.
In a large, heavy, stainless-steel or enameled saucepan over moderate heat, heat the oil, add the onion and garlic, and
With a slotted spoon, transfer the ribs to a large, shallow baking dish, pour the sauce over the top, and
Serve the ribs and sauce on a large, deep platter.
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