Harold’s Cracklin’ Cornbread

For ages, fans (bluebloods and commoners alike) have been going to Harold’s Barbecue in Atlanta as much for the cracklin’ cornbread and Brunswick stew as for the chopped pork barbecue—despite the restaurant’s tacky decor and no-booze policy. And yes, the cornbread, made with buttermilk, lard, and bits of salt pork cracklin’, is truly exceptional. No careful separate blending of the dry and wet ingredients at Harold’s: they just dump all the ingredients in a big tub, stir away till well blen