Craig Claiborne, who was born and raised in Sunflower, Mississippi, used to tell me that the biscuit muffins I so raved about were a specialty of his home state—and that his mother’s muffins were well known throughout the land. No doubt Craig meant what he said, the only problem being that I personally have never encountered biscuit muffins in Mississippi. (“That’s because you haven’t been to the right places in Mississippi,” snapped my friend Julia Reed, who’s from Greenville.) I have, on the other hand, had the muffins on a number of occasions over in Alabama, most notably at a fancy country club brunch in Montgomery and at a college friend’s mother’s home in Tuscaloosa. No matter. Let’s just say that biscuit muffins are a very distinctive bread of the Deep South and that the slightly sweet little dodgers are even more sumptuous when spread with homemade preserves at breakfast.