Craig Claiborne, who was born and raised in Sunflower, Mississippi, used to tell me that the biscuit muffins I so raved about were a specialty of his home state—and that his mother’s muffins were well known throughout the land. No doubt Craig meant what he said, the only problem being that I personally have never encountered biscuit muffins in Mississippi. (“That’s because you haven’t been to the right place
