Crab gratin

White! This is the most common answer when people are asked which of the very different meats of the crab they prefer. Certainly, the intense sweetness of the white is delightful, especially when coupled with a quivering dollopette of mayonnaise. But what of the dark stuff? It can seem like the preference of scavengers who still eat whelks and tripe, and appear among the more unfortunate types in a Dickens story. Well, personally, I love whelks and tripe, and humble brown meat - it is the e