Cold Baked Bass

Once I bought a whole side of smoked salmon in Dublin, but that’s as close as I’ve ever been to my dream of owning a whole, huge, gorgeous pink salmon to serve with three exquisite sauces. Salmon is almost worth its price, but I’ve never been able to discern the reason for the high price of swordfish, which I find coarse, dry, and insipid. To my taste, striped bass is the finest fish we have on the Northeast coast; and depending on the season, the weather, and a lot of imponderables, bass i