Poached Chicken a la Crème

Simmered in a rich broth, poached chicken is a moist and delicious foundation for many dishes. Although it’s easy enough to do, not many people bother since few of us have to worry about what to do with an elderly hen whose laying days are over. Nevertheless, when you happen to find one, “there’s a dance in the old dame yet”: the deeper flavor of a mature hen provides a fragrant stock for soups or -sauces; the flesh a foundation for white or brown fricassees, chicken fritters, croquettes, o