One of my favorite cookbooks was written by Joseph Donon, chef de cuisine to Henry Clay Frick, whose splendid mansion is now the Frick Museum housing his magnificent painting collection. The old millionaire’s tastes and that of the family of New York aristocrats later served by M. Donon ran to simple excellence made with the best of everything. I learned to adapt some of his recipes to a humbler purse. The master’s recipe for roast v
