Green Beans in Butter

Green, French, string, or snap beans are all the same thing—to begin with. Pale green, slender, crisp, and dewy fresh, few vegetables are more appetizing. But they are seldom cooked properly anywhere but in France, and alas, New York’s French restaurants appear to have forgotten all they ever knew about the business of cooking vegetables. The French method (open boiling in lots of water) is heresy to American home economists, who I daresay are accurate in claiming that this dissipates half