Steamed Fish with Green Onions

Steamed fish is largely known as a Cantonese dish, but it often appears on the Hakka table. The Hakka use whole local fish—from a river or lake if they live inland, or from the ocean if they live on the coast. Seasonings vary by region. Sichuan chefs shower the fish with fresh green peppercorns and sliced hot chiles. In Beijing, one chef scatters dark mushrooms and strips of red pepper on the fish. Chef Li from San Francisco tops the fish with slivers of pickled mustard gre