Hakka chef Andy Wong, known as “A-Man,” runs Chun Koc Sen, a restaurant in Lima’s Chinatown that is popular with both Peruvians and Chinese. This homestyle dish doesn’t stray far from A-Man’s roots in China. It reminds me of a dish my grandmother used to cook in California. Sliced chicken, sweet cured Chinese sausage, dark meaty mushrooms, and crunchy black fungus steam together with pungent ginger, soy sauce, and wine. As all these elements cook together in a bath of steam
