Braised Pork Belly and Black Fungus

Like many Hakka stews, Yong Soon’s pork belly version emanates a dark, umamirich intensity. Known as zha zhu rou, it’s a favorite of his parents, who love the smooth, yielding texture of the meat. The chef soaks chunks of pork belly in a soy sauce and spice marinade, and then fries them. He braises the seasoned meat in a broth enriched with oyster sauce and robustly flavored sa cha sauce, sometimes labeled Chinese barbecue sauce. As the chunks of pork