My maternal grandmother’s family were Italian expatriates who had settled in the Middle East. Nonna Mary was born in Beirut and lived in Egypt for a while. One of the dishes I remember her making, which she had learned in Egypt, was mahshi, a traditional Middle Eastern dish of cabbage rolls filled with rice and ground meat. They were a wonderful treat when she served them, and when I started working on this book, I asked my mother if she remembered how Nonna
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