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Haroset is an essential at a Passover seder, but beside the requirement that it be mortarlike in its consistency (it symbolizes the mortar the Hebrews used to build pharaoh’s pyramids), anything goes. One of the more offbeat versions is this tangy rhubarb haroset made by my friend, Rocky Mountain News food editor Marty Meitus. Rhubarb provides the piquancy; jicama the crunch. This is a perfect way to take advantage of the first of the seasons rhubarb.