When I went to Lyon to translate and revise the renowned chocolatier Bernachon’s book La Passion de Chocolat, my favorite treat in the entire shop were the palets d’or. They consisted of ganache centers made slightly tangy with crème fraîche instead of the usual heavy cream, and mellowed with a little butter. Each little palet, or “coin,” was enrobed in a hair-thin shell of dark chocolate that was coated with flecks of real gold leaf. I