The fish should weigh at least
Put a grid on a tripod over a glowing fire, lay the fish on it and cook for 5 minutes on either side. Turn again and baste by dipping a twig of rosemary into the vinegar and oil and brushing the fish with it. The fire having died down a little by now, cook for another 10 minutes on each side (30 minutes in all), basting from time to time. Place on a board; the skin and scales can be removed entire by lifting with a spatula. Serve with olive oil and lemons, or with salsa verde.
If by good fortune you see that the cefalo has a golden spot beside its eye and a sheen faintly golden instead of the silver found in the ordinary grey mullet, pounce upon it. The golden grey mullet has more substance and a far better taste, probably from frequenting deeper waters. The cefalo dorato arrives in shoals in the Ionian in late September in search of warmer shallow water in which to spawn, drawn from the deeper Adriatic by the presence of freshwater springs along the coast from Leuca to Gallipoli (see Congedo, Salento Scrigno d’Acqua, in the Bibliography). These fish have the most delicious roe.
Cook them as above, first removing the roe. Put this in a strainer, plunge into boiling water, quench with cold water, remove the membrane and put the roe into a mortar with